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While listening to the call to prayer from the rooftop of our hotel in Fès, in April 2014, a fellow traveller and I discussed whether the loudspeakers on the mosques should be replaced with better quality amplifiers.
Sure, the crackling, harsh voices that blanket the medinas of Morocco in waves, droning on to almost sound like a pack of motorcycles running rampant through the narrow streets, pale in comparison to the beauty of the muezzin's true voice. But, we both agreed, that there is a distinct quality to the sound that we found pleasing and calming. For me, being that this was my fourth time to Morocco, I find it to be familiar and somewhat nostalgic.
The first time I experienced the adhan, it was somewhat breathtaking. The only thing I can think of that compares to it are the tornado-warning sirens that I used to hear growing up near Chicago. Of course, without the threat of danger. The sound just pervades the streets and really cannot be ignored. If you happen to be on the roof of a building during the adhan, the effect is even more intense, as you can experience the voices from all the mosques as they echo across the city. Depending on the day, holiday and time, this can go on for quite awhile. I remember hearing a morning prayer in Fès that lasted almost a half-hour before the last mosque finished off in the distance somewhere. It was entrancing. It was then that I decided I need to return and record this.
Without the amplification of the muezzin's voice, the effects heard on these recordings would not be so great. It might be much more calming and beautiful with better speakers, but I prefer the loudspeakers. To me, there's something haunting about their sound, which I love. It makes the whole experience of walking through these ancient cities much more mysterious, as these drones surround you.
The first loudspeakers were installed on the mosques in the early part of the twentieth century, to the dismay of many people, yet they still persist.
The first part of this track was recorded during the day on the hill near Bab Aïn Zleten which overlooks Fès el-Bali, or the old city of Fès. Here, you can hear all the voices calling out over the city.
The second part was recorded in the morning around 5:15 from the roof of my hotel, where I slept in a tented communal room.
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